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A newly planted thuja, spruce or juniper looks much like an established plant, but cannot yet use water beyond its root ball. During the first season, the gardener's main task is to help roots grow into the surrounding soil. This takes observation, careful watering and a suitable location rather than extra feeding.
Assess conditions before problems appear
Notice how quickly the site heats up, whether it is windy and where rainwater goes. A hollow receiving runoff from a path differs from dry ground beside a south-facing wall. Record the species and cultivar: the word 'conifer' does not imply equal tolerance of heat, wet soil or shade.
Check the root collar and the plant's stability. Mulch should cover the soil, not hide the trunk. Do not pull a dried-out or leaning specimen upright by its top; support the root ball and first establish why the planting has become unstable.
Check the root ball separately from surrounding soil
Container compost may dry faster than garden soil, so check moisture in both places. Water should gradually soak the root ball. If it runs only around the edges, reposition the water supply and let small portions soak in.
Do not impose a permanent 'bucket every day' schedule on all plantings. Plant size, rainfall, temperature and soil composition vary. The principle of watering the root zone and adjusting frequency to moisture is described by University of Minnesota Extension.
Distinguish normal changes from damage
A little loss of older inner needles can be part of normal renewal. Dry outer tips, whole brown branches or a rapidly expanding patch need investigation. Note which side changed first and whether the change coincided with heat, flooding or frost.
Do not cut away every affected area based on one photograph. Many conifers regrow poorly from old bare wood, so heavy trimming can leave permanent gaps. Conifer care — RHS.
Prepare for the first cold season
In autumn, make sure the plant does not enter winter with a dried-out root ball. Add water as needed before the ground freezes, without waterlogging it. Consider wind and bright late-winter sun protection for vulnerable young plants in exposed positions.
In spring, compare first-season photographs with the current condition. Live buds, even new growth and a stable root ball offer a more useful assessment of establishment than promises of a specific number of centimetres of growth.